Tag: sirenians

Martel expedition 1905 in the Grand Canyon du Verdon

- History

The Martel expedition was led by the French speleologist Édouard-Alfred Martel (1859-1938). He went to Haute Provence in 1905. Sent by the Ministry of Agriculture, he came to study the resurgence of Fontaine l’Evêque (today drowned in the lake of Sainte-Croix). He then turned away by the Grand Canyon du Verdon, in particular by Rougon where a team went up to explore the Grand Canyon. It is Isidore Blanc, guide of the expedition and teacher who brings together a team of villagers. The Martel expedition was launched on August 11, 1905.

 

Martel expedition day 1

The whole team starts from Rougon to reach the Samson corridor. They embark men and equipment on three frail canvas and wood skiffs. After a first day of laborious navigation, they set up camp at La Baume aux Pigeons. Barely 2 kilometers traveled.

 

Martel expedition day 2

A boat is destroyed and progress is then made by the shore. They arrive at the beginning of the afternoon at Estellier. At nightfall, they enter the corridor of the Styx, a second boat shatters sending men and equipment into the river. They then set up camp on the Imbut beach. Martel at the end of his strength then wishes to abandon the adventure. It is encouraged by the rest of the team that he manages to regain his motivation. It must be said that this represents a very big day. Going from Stix to Imbut during the night to finish off the most seasoned.

Martel expedition day 3

Not venturing inside the Imbut, the expedition must go around it through the chaos of the same name. Getting these cumbersome boats over the huge blocks forming chaos must have been a heavy task and particularly time-consuming. The camp is established at the end of the day in Les Cavalets.

 

Day 4

The progression is very slow, chaos of rocks, multiple logs brought by the floods obstruct the passage. Arrived at Pas de Mayreste some men exhausted to the nerves decide to give up. It wasn’t until the end of the day that the rest of the team arrived at Pas du Galetas. Martel who was then part of it, near the Roman bridge of Aiguines (today drowned in the waters of Lake Sainte Croix) the first successful expedition of the Gorges du Verdon.

It was not until 1928 to see Robert de Joly cross the rooms of the Imbut for the first time.

 

Funny Helmets

 

Transverdon with MTB. Allos pass to Gréoux-les-bains

- Mountain biking

The transverdon with MBT

The Transverdon, only for the braves !! 3 – 2 – 1 – GO !! to your bikes !! 260 km, certified by the French Cycling Federation, La Transverdon is one of the 10 largest mountain bike crossings in France!

The route begins at the sources of Verdon, met at the Allos Pass at 2247 m altitude. A particularly Alpine, sporty and demanding route that crosses the mountains and joins the lakes of altitude. Thereafter, starting from Saint-André, with the entry in the Natural Park of the Verdon, one joins Castellane, Chasteuil, Rougon, Moustier Sainte-Marie and Gréoux-les-bains by remounting old forgotten roads. A second part more Mediterranean or it will always be good to refresh yourself in the beautiful lakes of Verdon if you start from the month of June.

A course divided into 15 sections

The course is divided into 15 sections plus an annex (from Barcelonette to the Col d’Allos and one at the arrival of Gréoux les Bains to Manosque). Perfectly identifiable, these sections are linked in the order you want, it is also easy to find accommodation on the course.

Here’s how we linked 15 sections of the transverdon in 5 days. First three days in the fall, followed by two more in June of the following year:

Day 1 / Allos Pass – Colmars les Alpes (sections 1 and 2) We start by crossing a magnificent forest of larches, the day will be tough for both the driver and the machine.

Day 2 / Colmars the Alps – Thorame Basse (sections 3, 4 and 5) The most difficult day I think, we find ourselves pushing the bike on very steep slopes … Black runs in winter .. The arrival at Lake Lignin is sublime.

Day 3 / Thorame Basse – Castellane (sections 6, 7 and 8) It goes down! Not quite … Beautiful views of Lake Castillon from Blaron. Personally very tired after these three days, I am very happy to put the transverdon in pause until next June

Day 4 / Castellane – Moustiers Sainte-Marie (sections 9, 10 and 11)
We resume the course in June with the first beautiful days so much so that the heat made us suffer a little.

Day 5 / Moustiers Sainte-Marie – Gréoux-les-Bains (sections 12, 13, 14 and 15) With much less height difference than in the first sections, the course of 4 sections is still very long

It is strongly recommended to train beforehand on the course of Castellane can be ..

 

 The Funny Helmets

Sirenians of the Col des Leques, 40 millions years ago

- History

The Sirenians

The Sirenians of the Col des Lèques existed 40 million years ago. You have probably had the pleasure to read our previous article. So you certainly know the pass that leads to Castellane from Dignes; the Col des Lèques. Just after the camping des Sirènes on the right (coming from Castellane), you will find a parking lot. Leave your vehicle there, here begins the path. It will lead you to the site of the Sirenes, set up by the Geological Natural Reserve of Haute Provence. Count about thirty minutes of walking to discover the region 40 million years ago!

The Sirenians of the Col des Lèques are marine mammals also called sea cows but also manatees dugongs. Indeed, they are herbivores that feed on algae and aquatic plants. They live mainly near the coasts in warm regions. The fossils present on the site thus come from a very ancient relative of the current dugongs and manatees.

 

A deposit of sirenians unique in the world

This deposit is one of the oldest and most abundant in the world. Who would have thought that in addition to its many attractions, the Verdon region would also be the world capital of the Sirenians? Indeed, unlike other Sirenian deposits which generally present only a few dimensions, this one is much richer. He was able to bring to light skulls, lower jaws, forearms… Numerous bones which are very seldom present of accustomed. If the Sirenians were so well preserved, it is because they were buried very quickly. It is undoubtedly a storm or a hurricane which is the cause. A meteorological event that may have caused a collapse or a landslide covering this poor manatee population. The region has certainly known a tropical climate in the past, 40 million years ago.

Finally, the Sirenians are buried in marls and yellowish greasy limestones dating from more than 35 million years ago. The latter rest on Jurassic limestones dating from 145 million years ago! 110 million years separate them and are not represented by any rock?

 

Site formation

Indeed, after a first phase of erosion (from -145 million years to -35 million years), the sea returns and the primitive valleys are covered with water. The site was in fact at that time a kind of marine creek. The layers of mud and sand that were once deposited there became the yellowish rocks of today that contain the Sirenians.

A detail remains to be clarified; how is it that the site which shows fossilized marine mammals is today at an altitude of more than 1000 meters? Indeed, the uplift of the Alps began more than 30 million years ago. This enormous uplift gradually raised in altitude all that was in its periphery. It is this phenomenon that created the so-called “pre-Alpine” massifs such as the Vercors, the Chartreuse, the Diois-Baronnies, the Monts de Vaucluse-Luberon, the Préalpes de Digne and others. The Verdon massif is called “Préalpes de Castellane”.
In this respect, it is interesting to note that the Alps continue to rise by one millimeter per year in some places.

The Funny Helmets.

The pass of Lèques, departure of mountain bike circuits

- Mountain biking

The pass of Lèques. We have chosen to present you today some mountain bike tours starting from this magnificent pass. The pass of Lèques culminates at 1146 meters of altitude, it dominates Castellane on the N85 leading to Digne-les-Bains. It is also the starting point for a cultural excursion, that of the Sirenians.

 

The ascent to the pass of Lèques

Two choices are offered to you;

The most courageous will go up from Castellane by riding their bike. They will face a difference in altitude of 428 meters over a distance of 9 kilometers. Enough to warm up the calves. It is not recommended to do this itinerary at 2pm in the middle of summer or you will end up dried out like a prune.

The others will organize a shuttle system to arrive at the top of the pass without getting too tired. Once there, you can always enjoy the view on the valley. You can also have a drink on the terrace of the Sirenes campsite, it is also possible to eat there before the activity. Remember to reserve if you want to eat there in the evening.

Then comes the time of the adventure, are the bikes ready? Helmets on the head, patches or a spare inner tube are packed in the backpack.

 

The descent from the pass of Lèques

We mount our bike and we leave on the left (coming from Castellane). Then we cross the hotel complex and its ground of tenis to the abandonment. One continues always on this track in direction of the telephone relay. To note that for the most lazy, we can also continue by car on this track. The economy made in legs is paid then in shock absorber of car.

After two kilometers of track, a first junction leaves on the left between two iron bars. This track brings you back to the beginning of the ascent of the pass of Lèques. We will pay attention to the trees that have fallen in the middle before arriving at a farm. A very wild route, which is apparently not used by any four-wheeled vehicle. The farm seems to have remained a prisoner of the past centuries.

Another route; From the track coming from the pass, continue for another two kilometers after the first junction described above. This time you reach a track that takes you through a valley and back to Brayale. From there, you can go down to Castellane in the direction of the road of the gorges. An excellent route!

 

Villars Brandis

Finally, if you continue this track from the pass in the direction of Cadières de Brandis, you have this time the possibility to go down to Villars Brandis. For my part, I appreciated less this route. Indeed, it imposes some portages (always a little frustrating to have to carry your bike to go down, especially when you sweated a lot before to go up). Moreover, you will meet three patous (imposing Pyrenean shepherds), which is always a bit stressful. According to a friend who lives there, they are as adorable as cuddly toys. Well, you have to let them approach to realize it.

Have a nice trip!

The Funny Helmets.

 

Canyoning in the Ravine of Venascle, Moustiers-Sainte-Marie

- Canyoning Verdon

I don’t have to introduce you anymore Christophe, my canyon guide friend with whom we have already discovered the Val d’Angouire canyon. This time he is going to a tributary of the latter; the famous Vénascle ravine. A canyon very rarely in water. But thanks to the rainy spring of this year, there is enough water to evolve all along the course. Indeed, it is always more interesting to practice a canyon in water. A dry canyon is somehow cut off from the fun aspect that a water canyon can offer. Finally, it is good to know that a canyon that does not flow generally presents stagnant pools. A not very healthy atmosphere that we prefer to keep away from.

Approach walk and organization for the Vénascle ravine

We leave Castellane at 8:30 am because for the last few days the weather has been turning stormy in the early afternoon. It is never advisable to take the rain in the middle of a narrow passage. Indeed, we often fear the “flush” effect. It is therefore better to leave before the rain. A good hour of road is necessary to arrive at Moustiers-Sainte-Marie by the D-952. We know it by heart but it is always very pleasant. Especially early in the morning when the road belongs to us.

To perfect our last adventure, we decide to take this time two cars. In order to make a shuttle between the lodging of Vénascle and Moustiers-Sainte-Marie. This allows us to save the two and a half hours of walking we did the week before, loaded like mules. Too bad for the warm-up this time!

We park quietly on the plateau and we prepare the stuff. Once the bags thrown on the back, we are ready to leave! We ask ourselves then the following question “Where is the departure? We begin to look for, to look for… This famous departure is not easy to find. We turned back several times to find this very badly indicated departure.

 

Progression in the Canyon of the ravine of Vénascle

We change quickly and Christophe who already growls (I make fun of him :))) “Let’s hurry up, it’s getting covered!” We cover 50 meters before putting the first rappel and already, the scenery is set. A long narrow passage interspersed with small abseils. Even if there is only one jump, I have the impression that this route is more fun than the one in Val d’Angouire. The anchors are not as new but they held! Several passages under waterfalls, do not forget the hood!

At the end of the route, a few passages of de-escalation are mandatory. Two or three meters at the most but that will not be easy for the less adventurous, we will be careful not to slip… Then at the arrival, we join the Val d’Angouire which today is very wet. Probably too much to be able to cross it serenely.

A walk of 40 minutes is necessary to return on the highest parking of Moustiers, it is recommended to follow the red paint marks at the beginning not to get lost and to join the botanical path.

The Funny Helmets.

Vultures Fawn and Monk vultures of the verdon

- Natural environments

In the Verdon, when the weather is good, it is almost impossible not to see vultures flying in the sky. And as the weather is very often good… Take a walk in the area of Point Sublime or from the first viewpoints of the Route des Crètes. You can also see them very well from the part of the 952 road that leads from Carajuan to Point Sublime. Look up, they are there! They had disappeared in the XIX century in the Verdon. Indeed, these majestic birds were accused in the past of being bad omens. They lived very badly the arrival of the rifles and the other rifles.

Thus, the association Vautours en Haute Provence launched in 1993 a project of reintroduction of the griffon vulture by installing several of them in an aviary above the village of Rougon. This aviary is still present, it is in this place that the population is supplied every week. Indeed, they are now quite numerous for the few carcasses that can be found in the vicinity.

 

The Griffon Vultures

It has a wingspan that goes from 240 cm to 280 cm for a length of 95 to 105 cm. It has long wings and a small whitish head. The Griffon Vulture is the first vulture to help itself to a carrion. It feeds on soft flesh (muscles and viscera). It has a long neck that allows it to get inside the carcass. The latter is covered with down. Indeed, the dried blood cleans better on this support than on feathers or naked skin. The first griffon vultures were released on October 16, 1999. Between 1999 and 2005, 99 griffon vultures were released from the aviaries of Rougon.

 

The black vulture

The reintroduction program saw an evolution from 2005 with the arrival of the black vulture. Eleven specimens were released. They fly from the Mercantour to the Barronies, nevertheless, a couple is now breeding in the Verdon. With a wingspan of 250 to 295 cm for a length of 100 to 110 cm, it is the widest of the European raptors. The young have a black plumage while the adults have a brown plumage. Its head has a powerful beak that allows it to get interested in the hardest flesh such as tendons, skin, ligaments, cartilage …

 

Percnopter vultures

Also called “Egyptian vulture“, it is a migratory bird of prey. It has not been reintroduced in the Verdon but it benefits from some mass graves in the region. This vulture feeds mainly on dead animals but is also known to eat eggs that it breaks with stones. It has a wingspan of 165 to 170 cm and a length of 56 to 75 cm. It has long rectangular wings and a narrow head. The plumage of the young is chocolate brown while that of the adults is white and black.

 

The Bearded Vulture

It is a bone crusher that throws them from great heights before going to feed on the ground. With a wingspan of up to 275 cm, this vulture is rarely seen in the Verdon. It is rather found in the upper Ubaye valley or in the Mercantour National Park.

 

The Funny Helmets.